Thursday, January 10, 2013

Lolitaism | Gothic Lolita in Fashion Week

The season gives room to various designers' interpretation of Gothic Lolita. It felt like a review of the concept. But, the different designers were also able to introduce this concept with unique details that made their style distinguishable from one another. The trend is hinted in manners where it can still be recognized but it is not loud.

Yohji Yamamoto's take on this trend felt serious and had a sharp extravagance about it. The designer's choice of color per piece was a contrast of lighter and darker tones. It was mostly white and black but also had few shades of blue and purple mixed with other looks.For me, their appearance made me think of an adult being unable to completely grow out of childhood or a child trying to be an adult but cannot quite grow into the new role as perfectly as she/he wants. The finishing touches to the look (such as the play on sizes like oversized bows and the deliberate mismatch on proportions) can probably persuade onlookers of what I mean by this.

As for the Comme de Garcons S/S 2012 collection, I found myself remembering of the nearing Christmas season as well as all things white and pretty such as snow and roses.

I found it interesting that the collection played with a variety of white and a little hint of black in some pieces. Despite the choice of color scheme for the collection, it did not entirely have the impression of leaning towards the strict or the soft. The manner that the collection coordinated the textiles and the forms together with the color scheme made it well-balanced.

I guess this design shows best what I mean. For this design, the upper portion including the headpiece has a knitted or lace material draping asymmetrically that gives the element of something soft and free. Yet, the lower portion of the design have a skirt with an almost cage-like structure paired with a solid white boots that adds a strict geometrical touch to the look. Surprisingly though, it seems that skirt is made of lace or a textile similar to it. The overall form of the looks seem to symbolize how versatile and whimsical a child can be in his/her transformation through the years.

Yet, for all of the designs, it does not miss the hint of the much gentler elements by toning the geometrical, the strict and the solid by using embellishments that reminds us of roses and knitted or lace or something similar in each design.

I believe the designs reflected the delicate nature of a child yet also have this recklessness about them that is uniquely their own trait.

For Alexander McQueen, I thought it was a collection that represented youthfulness thrown into an alien and otherworldly confusion of the much darker and sordid attitude of the "real world". The colors made me think of being surrounded by the world-weary but the length and silhouette shows traces of supposedly long gone innocence.

On the other hand, Miu Miu presents a collection that has elements of the practical and modern for young girls in a world where many things are considered trivial. It gives of the air of naturally belonging and slowly melting into the culture of adults in spite of being a young girl. It is like a young thing bravely confronting the menace of being an adult with a cool detached manner.There is something boldly harsh about the strict lines or the colors that pop out from the prints and how some pieces are coordinated like staining gentle childhood with the no-nonsense practicality of adulthood.

The designers' way of expressing these trends may be different but the hints of childhood is ever present whether that be in a somber manner or not. The different collections tells a dark, the pessimistic and the jaded story that morphs childhood in a creative and peculiar way.


Neko Eri

Images from Dazed Digital | Fashion Week Round Up S/S12: Gothic Lolita'via Blog this'

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